MAS (Magazzini allo Statuto) opened in Rome at the turn of the 20th century as a high-end fashion emporium, but all that's left of its former glory are the old chandeliers, some of which are drooping so badly they practically touch the ratty wall-to-wall carpet on the floor. Yes, MAS has gone decidedly downscale, all five floors of it, with a very colourful army of customers wh...